French bicycle producer and legendary biking crew is reborn within the Twenty first century as a premium clothes model that pays tribute to its personal previous
Mercier bossed skilled biking for over 50 years between 1933 and 1984. Antonin Magne, Louison Bobet, Raymond Poulidor, Cyrille Guimard, Joop Zoetemelk and naturally Britain’s Barry Hoban all rode for the varied incarnations of the crew from Mercier-Hutchinson within the early days via to the ultimate Coop-Mercier-Mavic squad.
A Mercier rider by no means gained the Tour de France, though Poulidor, ‘the everlasting second’, who rode for Mercier for his complete profession, was runner-up thrice and third 5 instances. There have been loads of stage wins and Classics victories and Mercier claims probably the most participations within the historical past of the Tour.
The story of the decline of a bicycle producer in Europe within the Nineteen Eighties is a well-known one and Mercier, whose bikes had been a serious a part of French biking for the reason that authentic St Etienne manufacturing facility opened in 1919, closed its doorways in 1985.
So to see the title reappear as a clothes model can be a supply of pleasure – and probably shock – for followers of the golden period of motorcycle racing. Moreover, it’s Emile Mercier Jr, the son and nephew of the founders, and his son-in-law Alexis Descollonges who’re behind it, making it an genuine household enterprise as soon as once more.
The resurgent Mercier collaborated with designers from the biking and outside clothes industries in Annecy and Chamonix to develop its new vary, and is now based mostly in that area.
Nearly all of its textiles are made in France and the clothes are manufactured in northern Italy, 150 kilometres from its HQ. Mercier says working inside such a small perimeter permits it to higher management the availability and high quality of its supplies, spend money on the information of its companions and likewise minimise transportation, lessening its ecological impression.
Very sensibly, the model has steered effectively clear of creating duplicate crew equipment – although there’s a very cool limited-edition Miko-Mercier tribute jersey within the vary, which is the closest factor – and has as a substitute included a lot of rather more tasteful nods to the crew’s historical past.
The vary covers each biking garment and eventuality, all that includes the signature pink of Mercier’s bikes, the purple of the BP-era jersey and the darkish blue of the GAN crew, incorporating the basic crown brand which used to characteristic on the tops of the fork legs and evocative scripts from the previous.
There’s a narrative that Barry Hoban used to convey suitcases stuffed with Mercier equipment again house and provides it to his mates, who would put on it across the roads of the UK. When Mercier despatched me a choice of equipment to evaluate from France, I couldn’t assist pondering of that. Like Barry’s mates again within the 70s, I used to be proud to put on it.
Mercier Saint-Etienne jersey – €175
Named after the town the place Mercier was based, the Saint-Etienne biking jersey is made out of three totally different supplies – primarily from a stretchy, breathable cloth that has a trendy, basic look however packs an impressively fashionable efficiency.
Mercier describes this jersey as “versatile … protects from the chilly and wind when circumstances require it,” and having examined it in Britain the place it’s attainable to expertise 4 seasons in a single journey, that’s a good description.
Whereas the primary physique of the jersey is a single block color, there are many hidden particulars. The inward-facing aspect of the pockets has a repeating sample of the Mercier ‘M’ in numerous fonts from the totally different eras and there’s a label sewn in with a brief biography of the Mercier crew. This remembers – or could even be impressed by – Rapha’s tributes to legendary riders. There was even a Rapha ‘Commerce Workforce’ jersey in 2012 that was based mostly on Poulidor’s purple-and-yellow Mercier-BP-Hutchinson jersey of 1962: Mercier has determined it will probably do its personal tribute, merci beaucoup.
There are embroidered Mercier logos on the breast and on the central rear pocket and the within of the collar is a bathe of little pink Ms.
The cuffs are elasticated and there’s a piece of silicone-backed elastic on the rear to help the pockets and to maintain the underside of the jersey in place, though with this jersey’s effectively judged match it’s in all probability not even crucial.
There are 4 males’s and 4 girls’s sizes. I examined the scale S and located the lads’s measurement information on Mercier’s web site is correct, with the caveat that its equipment is made to suit tightly and is designed for coaching and racing circumstances. “When you wish to eat and drink effectively then select the bigger measurement – it is going to be the proper one,” advises Mercier.
There’s a alternative of three colourways – together with ‘Sycamore Inexperienced’, which can not have been an official color again within the crew’s salad days however is unquestionably in vogue in 2023.
The construct high quality of the Saint-Etienne jersey is admittedly distinctive – it’s fantastically made (in Italy) and appears and has a high-end really feel.
Mercier Emile bib shorts – €230
Mercier presents the Emile and the Ernest bib shorts for males andjust the Louison waist shorts for girls.
The Emile is the flagship mannequin and identical to the Saint-Etienne jersey, they’re designed for actual efficiency moderately than retro posturing. Though the logos and lettering recall the crew equipment of the mid-Twentieth century, they’re lightyears forward of the scratchy shorts that chafed the undercarriages of Poulidor et al.
Mercier says they’re made out of a 360 diploma cloth completely designed for them, and it’s very very similar to the sort the present finest bib shorts from the massive manufacturers use: it’s matt and significantly compressive – although Mercier doesn’t declare any compressive advantages – and clean becoming with out wrinkles.
There’s a mesh panel on the decrease again the place the jersey overlaps, and one other one is ready between the bib straps on the higher again.
The bib straps are clean elastic which have sufficient stretch to carry the shorts part within the bike place, however they by no means pull on the shoulders, even when standing or sitting upright.
As with the jersey, Mercier’s measurement information is correct. The scale S was ideally suited for me (5ft 10in, 69kg) and the legs are an honest size even for lengthy femurs.
There are the identical three colourways because the Saint-Etienne jersey.
Like most good-quality bib shorts, the Emiles use a chamois from one of many specialist producers – on this case a three-density pad made by Elastic Interface. No Magne-era uncooked steak crucial. The complete three densities are stacked beneath the sitbones – it’s focused cushioning, once more like manufacturers akin to Assos and Castelli are utilizing, moderately than a pad of uniform thickness, and works very effectively.
The Mercier branding is discreet on these shorts in order that you may get away with sporting them outdoors of the Mercier ensemble with out committing the crime of blending professional equipment, and their efficiency is nice sufficient that they warrant it. These are on a par with the most effective bib shorts this 12 months – tremendous comfy for lengthy mileage, effectively becoming and trendy trying.
Mercier Chess gilet €130
Presumably named after the ‘chess-on-wheels’ of highway racing regardless that the title suggests the jersey of Mercier’s rival crew Peugeot, the Chess gilet is the light-weight, single-layer sort that matches simply right into a jersey pocket, to be donned or eliminated as circumstances dictate.
Just like the Emile shorts, it is available in 4 males’s sizes however there’s no girls’s gilet.
The Chess has a windproof, waterproof entrance (although Mercier doesn’t declare any hydrophobic properties); stretchy aspect panels and a mesh again, whereas behind the shoulders is a yoke part that’s each windproof and lined – in a drop-bar place this half bears the brunt of the climate.
Whereas for a lot of the equipment the Mercier branding is minimal and comparatively discreet, the gilet will get large Mercier lettering throughout the higher again, however that is justified for the reason that letters are reflective. So it appears in case you actually wish to take pleasure in Mercier’s mirrored glory, you’ll have to attend for dangerous climate.
Whereas the Mercier Saint-Etienne jersey and Emile bib shorts are constant of their sizing, the scale small gilet comes up barely bigger than you’d count on – which signifies that you may put on it over a winter jacket as an additional layer in case you wished to. Over simply the snug-fitting jersey it’s on the unfastened aspect, nevertheless.
The Chess has all the weather and efficiency of a prime gilet: there’s a two-way zip that may be undone on the backside for further air flow on lengthy climbs; the mesh rear works effectively to let warmth escape and the entrance retains out the chilliness and the showers.
Like the opposite Mercier equipment, it appears to be like tremendous stylish. This time there’s no inexperienced colourway – it’s pink or darkish blue.
Mercier Peloton base layer €58
The Peloton base layer is available in males’s and ladies’s variations – each of them sleeveless, string vest fashion. Although, as with all the trendy Mercier choices, it’s a bit extra excessive tech than what Pou Pou had.
The Peloton is made out of super-lightweight artificial mesh – claimed document density of solely 60g/m2 – with very skinny panels of ‘strong’ silky cloth on the sides.
There’s a repeating sample of various Mercier Ms and crown logos, and for the lads’s base layer you possibly can select between blue, inexperienced or black patterns on the white background, whereas for girls it’s simply blue for the reason that girls’s Saint-Etienne jersey is simply obtainable in blue.
Since there’s no room for a label with a miniature biking historical past lesson on it, a easy motivational message ‘Bien faire et laisser dire’ is printed on the underside hem – roughly translated as ‘do effectively and allow them to speak’ or extra idiomatically ‘do proper and concern no man’ – a effectively chosen motto for a sport traditionally shot-through with skulduggery. Poulidor famously accepted drug testing regardless that it set him towards nearly all of the peloton which was on the time vociferously against it.
As for sizing, the Peloton base layer is in line with Mercier’s information, with the scale small excellent for me (5ft 10in, 69kg) and likewise an ideal size, with no bunching contained in the shorts.
It wicksmoisture away from the physique successfully, which is the job of a base layer, is conversely useful at trapping heat air in cooler circumstances, and crucially matches the Mercier Saint-Etienne jersey.
Mercier Massif socks €24
Final however not least, the Massif socks (obtainable in three sizes going from 35 as much as 46, appropriate for many women and men).
Sock peak has been one of the vital contentious points in biking in recent times, each for sartorial and aerodynamic causes. Though Merckx had a desire for socks that ended simply above his ankle bone, and on events could even have turned them down himself, Pouldor’s largely prolonged at the least to his decrease calf. Mercier’s Massif socks are beneficiant in size, just a bit larger than Poulidor’s in his closing Tour de France in 1976.
Socks had been historically white, however Mercier now presents 5 colors.
And naturally the materials are actually extra superior: they’re made out of what Mercier calls Q-Pores and skin cloth, which in line with the model has antibacterial properties and sweat-wicking applied sciences.
They’re tremendous delicate and I’ve discovered them to be extraordinarily comfy – and it’s additionally value noting that they’re nonetheless trying contemporary after fairly a number of wash cycles. Shabby-looking socks can wreck your complete rigorously curated equipment combo – these gained’t do this.
Verdict
The Twenty first-century Mercier efficiently celebrates its personal historical past within the skilled peloton with a totally fashionable, tremendous trendy vary of clothes that performs effectively and appears implausible.
Pricing is on the higher finish of the size, however these are all fantastically designed clothes which can be made in Europe with European materials.
It’s a ‘oui’ from me.